My subject was being interviewed by the client for use on there web site and print material. I used one SB-800 mounted on a Justin Clamp, and placed on the fence post about 10 feet from my subject. The flash was gelled using a full cut CTO to simulate late afternoon light.
More later regarding this assignment, time to hit the sack! DT
nice and natural feel! Got a question, normally we are seeking the shadow to be able to shoot around 250th f8 or so, what do you do when you have to shoot someone in full sunny daylight and you still want to underexpose the background and maintain a reasonable shutterspeed and aperture? Switch to more power? or work with nd?
Good question. If I have to shoot in that kind of environment I would place the sun the the back side of my subject. I would want their face in shade, use "high speed sync" in order to maintain a shallow Depth of field.
Terrific image, David! Has a very natural-light look, which I know you strive for with your subject-driven lighting.
Question regarding high-speed sync. I use it frequently with the Nikon CLS system, but is there any way to do it with third party flash units, or when using PocketWizards and Nikon Speedlights (SB-800s)? Sometimes, when I most need high speed sync (e.g., strong ambient lighting), the SU-800/SB-800 IR CLS method is less than reliable.
Have a wonderful Thanksgiving!
Hi Jon. You can only use the high speed sync capabilities when you use a dedicated Nikon camera and Nikon strobe which supports high speed sync. You can not use a third party strobe or even PocketWizards when using Nikon equipment. By placing a PocketWizard into the mix, the camera and flash can not "speak" to each other.
There is a product called the Radio Popper which will extended your range of the CLS system up to 400 feet. This may help with the issues your experiencing, Dono.
I've never really had any problems with syncing in bright sunlight whether it high speed sync or normal. If you are using the extra battery compartment "the 5th battery" on your strobe, it may be blocking the signal from your camera from reaching the strobe sensor. Just a thought.
I usually use Nikon CLS (SU-800 / SB-800s) - only defaulting to PWs if I had trouble with CLS. The main issue for me has always been outdoors in bright light with nothing to bounce the CLS IR off of. I've often wondered if the 5th battery compartment was getting in the way of the sensor window, but never bothered to test it. I've now reverted to the 4-battery configuration on two of my 800s, and we'll see if I have better luck.
I've considered the radiopoppers, but I hate the idea of sticking accessories on my gear... Bound to come off at the least opportune moment.
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